Wednesday, July 30, 2014

Korea Week 4: Korean Oligarchy, Yoga and Monks that (literally) Kick Butt

Korean Oligarchy: Essentially Korea is run by 3 companies:

Store in Itaewon, the 'western' district of Seoul
Hyundai, Samsung and Lotte.

Pretty crazy, you see the logos everywhere. These companies have their fingers in virtually every industry; juice, ice cream, cars, festival sponsorship, university sponsorship, shoes, etc.

Yoga: Been doing yoga and meditating almost every morning on the rooftop of my apartment building lately - really lovely.
This powerful yet soft warm wind is almost always blowing and since the temperature here is anywhere from 75-100 degrees (24- 37 C), even at 3am, the wind is really refreshing.

Temple Stay: Went to a Korean Buddhist temple and ate my favorite food of the trip thus far.
(All healthy and vegetarian and novel and delicious).
Man temple food is the bomb, I wish I could get it more often!

These signs line the streets of Itaewon
They have them for every country!
Leading us through meditation was the funniest monk I'd ever seen.

He threatened to hit people with this bamboo stick if they fell asleep while meditating...and then demonstrated how he would hit people by hitting two guys in the front row. Still not content, he pulled me up to the front and had me hit a guy in the front row in a similar way.

Then there was a guy who was profoundly inflexible and was struggling to sit on the floor. The monk saw him as an ideal target.
He pulled him up to the front and then folded his legs for him, arguably breaking them.
A thorough source of entertainment, our entire group was cracking up.

We also took part in a traditional tea ceremony and learned how to properly bow (it's more complicated than you think).

Then we made lotus flowers :D

After that I went home to do some work and later met up with friends again for a soccer (football) game.



They really love green tea and red bean
together here

More teobokki!

Kimbap = staple food source.
There's a great little local place right next
to campus that sells these delicious rolls for
about $2.50 USD

The Hyundai Business School at Korea Uni is beautiful!

Really yummy restaurant right next to my
home

Korean bars almost always have these little
corn... err, tubes?
Pictured is Rafael modeling with his kebab

Mushroom soup!

Buddhist temple

The ceiling of the temple 

NOM NOM NOM NOM NOM


Lotus flowers!

Tea ceremony!
There's a whole process and pattern to pouring
tea - quite complex and very interesting

The soccer game! Koreans love their team sports
(Baseball is huge here too)

"MADE IN THE USA" lol
Might as well try it, it was okay, tasted like
vitamins haha


Bingsu! Korean/Asian ice cream desert dish
Delicious :D
It's ice cream on top of shaved ice that you
later pour milk and peanut over (after you eat the
ice cream)

Oh man. These flip flops.
I feel like I need to write a eulogy for them. They have been through so much.
Monsoons in Vietnam, Holi in Berkeley, mad sprints to Bart in SF, clubbing in Singapore and Korea, beaches in Australia
They've lived a good and long life, especially considering I got them for $1 from Old Navy.

Sunday, July 20, 2014

Korea Week 3: Mud Festival, Chinese Visa Fail, North Korea

Mud Festival:
I went to the Buryeong Mud Festival in Korea this weekend!
That was a blast.
Free mud painting and beaches and concerts!
Also there were some seriously awesome fireworks at the end. It was really foggy/polluted so we were anticipating not being able to really see anything but in fact the fog made the fireworks look so much cooler!
The color from a single explosion would be dispersed through the haze and it would light up the entire sky.


I took about 50 photos of the fireworks alone.
It would go from pitch black to the brightness of broad daylight.













Kimbab... but it was strange because it
wasn't together like a sushi roll












































Chinese Visa Fail:
Spent 7 hours of my life, over a 2-day period, trying to get my Chinese visa.


Ultimately I discovered that Korea wouldn't grant me one because I'm not a Korean resident.
So now I have to figure something else out - maybe even fly back to the US.

But throughout my 7 hour journey I had a interesting realization.
Let me set the stage:

Temperature: 31 degrees Celsius (87.8 F)
Humidity: 81%
Hours passed schlepping myself to the wrong (old) embassy building and then to the new one: 4


Metro/Bus rides taken: 6
Success with getting Chinese visa: None

This was just day 1.

After sweatily walking up a pretty steep hill to get to the new Chinese embassy only to discover they closed early that day, I was not in the best mood.
I hiked back down the hill and sat once more on public transportation, feeling a tad grumpy.

I began to ride home in the air-conditioned bus, dejected because I had failed to get a visa to study abroad in China while I was already privileged enough to study abroad in Korea.

Feeling refreshed from the AC but definitely low on blood sugar I reached into my bag and rifled past my reading books, wallet and portable wifi unit to pull out some cold tea I had purchased right before getting on the bus. After satiating my thirst I pulled out my iPhone and started using the internet to read the news on one of my favorite apps, Flipboard.

I hadn't even finished reading a single headline with the shame hit me.

Seriously? Seriously? Here I was sitting on a clean bus, confidently flashing my smartphone around with no threat of attack, drinking iced tea and exploring a whole new city and I had the audacity to whine about not being able to get a visa to go to another country?

There are people in this world who will never even have the chance to fight their way to having what I have. 

I was exhausted, my feet were blistered, dried sweat plastered my face but I suddenly felt so profoundly thankful.

Have I worked hard to get to where I am today - to be in Korea, to be able to travel to all these places? Absolutely. Since I was really young I've always studied diligently and worked hard and lived frugally to save money for future life.
But was I born into a life of privilege - with immediate access to healthcare, clean water, food, clothing, shelter and a police force that protects my neighborhood? Absolutely.
Had I not been given that would any of my hard work brought me to where I am today? Unlikely.
View from the rooftop of my apartment
View from the rooftop of my apartment

Everyone reading this is already in such position of privilege; you have internet access, you probably have a smartphone and a safe place to sleep at night.

I feel like most people understand they have a good life - but when you catch yourself complaining and getting grumpy about silly things like humid weather and public transportation, it's nice to give yourself a healthy dose of reality.

Seeing life through that lens really puts things in perspective.
Definitely a great life lesson in humility for me.

North Korea:
I had an interesting conversation with a friend about visiting North Korea the other day.
For the past couple of months I've been obsessed with everything North Korean, binge-watching documentaries with admirable voracity. So obviously I would want to visit North Korea should I find myself with the financial means to do so (you can go as part of a tour).
However my friend pointed out something really interesting a North Korean defector said when she spoke at Korea University earlier in the week (I had to miss the speaker because I had class).

I'm paraphrasing, but essentially it was:

"Don't go to North Korea. Don't be a tourist. Why give $1,000+ to a government that is so horribly corrupt and abusive to see a bunch of fake stuff anyways? You won't see any true part of North Korea, everything you see is monitored and staged. Instead give that same money to an organization that will help save the lives of 10 or more North Koreans."

The reality of that statement hit pretty hard with me. I was so jaded with my fascination to physically see North Korea, even the fakeness, that I didn't even think about what a waste of money it is, money that could be put to a much better cause - like saving the lives of real North Koreans.

So I am a reformed would-be tourist and no longer plan to visit unless I know that I can achieve something with my visit, something that will help bring the malicious government to justice.

Also the hours of documentaries I've watched have most likely showed me everything and more than what I would have seen on the tour. 
Borat advertisement for KPop?
Globalization in the works 
Soju watermelon drink served on dry ice -
delicious!
Dried squid - surprisingly I didn't really enjoy it
I love seafood, but squid just isn't my thing
The plastic surgery district in Korea is actually quite creepy.
There are ads for plastic surgery everywhere, and the streets
are lined with building that say "Plastic Surgery Clinic" in Korean
Saw this nifty local market, picked up some fruit and veggies
Lots of really interesting Korean foods here
- wish they had a sampling table so I could
at least taste them to find out if I want to buy some :P
German pastries in Korea! Haha
'Schneerballen'

Monday, July 14, 2014

Korea Week 2: Kimchi, Taekwondo, Noribang, and Traditional Garb!

I've never, not once in my life, been homesick.

Even when I was really young and went on week-long camping trips (or when I spent 3 weeks in Costa Rica with my spanish class) I never longed for home. In fact I relished the opportunity to face the challenges that being away from home brought.
Since as far back as I can remember I loved to change my scenery, to force myself to adapt to novelty, even if it meant sleeping on the floor with only a pillow - I loved it just because it was different.

For the first time ever, I feel a touch homesick. If I had the money I would seriously consider flying back home for 3 weeks before going to China instead of going to the Philippines.
But that's prohibitively expensive.
Plus, I'll be island hopping and reading a plethora of books in the Philippines. Don't think life can get much better (barring the absence of family, friends and boyfriend).
Maybe if there was skydiving and hang-gliding involved. And Rottweilers. Yeah, that would be great.

--

Some strange rice cake with beans on top, it was interesting
but nothing I'd actively search out to try again..
Or even passively choose to try again haha.
This week was jam-packed with Seoul-tastic adventures! I will just do this blog via photo captions because there was so much that I just had to post in a boat load of pictures.

All in all I love Korea and Korean culture.


If I had to be an expat in any Asian country (that I've been to so far) it would definitely be Korea. There is an awesome mix of:
  • Authentic Korean culture, 
  • Western, and thus relatable, mannerisms (not as reserved as Japan or Singapore), 
  • Love for technology,
  • Seoul never sleeps - the clubs close at 9am, what?!? 
  • The drinking culture here is the best. I don't really enjoy drinking but the social aspect of going out to bars is truly top notch. The bars here are so unique and full of character. Also no one just goes to bars and drinks, you always order some food (which is always Korean and tasty) and it is customary to get 'service', aka: free stuff (usually food or drinks). 
  • Seriously friendly local people (for the most part) who are happy to help and will greet you with a genuine smile
  • Paying for stuff here is so easy. Everything (taxes, etc) is included in the price. Why can't we have this in America??
Cooking the kimchi pancake (hoddeok)

Gwangjang market! Over 5,000 stalls
of clothing and street food - YUM



Uber famous Korean street food pancakes, Hoddeok - pretty tasty.
Nothing extraordinary, but worth a try for sure

Namsan tower during the day
(got lucky to catch a blue sky)

View from the tower at night. Spent about 4 hours
here. Watched a lovely traditional Korean performance,
ate ice cream, read and met some random Russian people!

I was sitting, happily eating my meal when suddenly...

All of these Korean cafeteria ladies swarmed around me,
effectively kicking me out of my dinner spot.
I thought to myself: okay, maybe
there was no where else to sit, so they just had to sit
here? ->
No, the entire cafeteria was pretty much
empty...so I have no idea why they all
needed to cluster around me and put their
trays within cm of mine and continually
reach over me. 


Cheese dukbokki:
Essentially Korean pizza - YUM

Sunset at the Han River, so vibrantly red 

Mmmmmm Honey Makgeolli
(A type of Korean alcohol with very low
alcohol content)

Kimchijeon:
I loved this because it had so many vegetables

Traditional Korean garb!

Making kimchi :D

Taekwondo!

Nom nom nom

Noribang! (Karaoke night with some great people)